Climate change could be an opportunity for German wine
“It’s like tasting a dinosaur. With climate change, you can’t recreate these wines.”
In a suit and tie, Dieter Greiner speaks from the head of an elegant, wood-carved hall, smiling at around a dozen winemakers sitting at the tables set up along the room’s perimeter. On the wall behind him, a row of neutral-faced German monks in black robes stare out from their portraits. On the table in front of him — and every other person in the room — are nine wine glasses, each filled with a splash of amber-colored Riesling known as Eiswein (ice wine), the oldest one dating back to 1981.
Due to rising temperatures, his winery hasn’t been able to produce that type of Riesling, which relies on cold weather, since 2012, Greiner says, as his guests sniff and swirl their glasses.
The German wine expert is the managing director of Kloster Eberbach, a former Cistercian abbey still known today for its wine production. In June, the abbey near the banks of Germany’s Rhine River dipped into its wine archive to offer a special tasting event to select winemakers from around Europe: over two days, more than a dozen industry insiders from France, Spain, Italy and elsewhere gathered at the abbey to taste 101 vintages of German Riesling wine, the oldest dating back to 1893.
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